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How to: Move to Germany

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Moving to Germany is not impossible, but it can be difficult to navigate the requirements and bureaucratic web of money, insurance, laws, and beer.
 

This isn't a post to highlight anything fun, this is a simple breakdown of specific topics and pertinent information on them. It's also tailored towards Americans moving to Germany, but there are plenty of parts useful for anyone of another country moving to Europe in general. I couldn't find anything like this when I was moving, so I hope this helps someone out there!

Ordered steps for settling in:

  1. Find a job, sign a contract

  2. Sell all of your shit

  3. Break your mother and grandmother's hearts

  4. Find an AirBnB or sublease for the first 1-3 months

  5. Apply for a visa at a US consulate office (optional)

  6. Fly to Germany, move into your flat

  7. Complete "city registration"

  8. Open a bank account

  9. Get a german phone plan

  10. Breathe.

  11. Obtain health insurance

  12. Apply for a visa, obtain the visa

  13. Start your job

  14. Hunt for a permanent flat

  15. Buy personal liability insurance

  16. Move into your permanent flat

  17. Pay the Rundfunkbeitrag

  18. Buy stuff

  19. BREATHE MOTHERFUCKER

  20. Learn German

  21. Travel

  22. Convert your drivers license

  23. Taxes

  24. Conclusion

  25. Supplementary links


FIND A JOB, SIGN A CONTRACT

This is the first step. There are a few major ways to get a job when not an EU resident:

  1. Inter-company transfer. I don't know much about this, but I think there's a requirement you work in the company domestically before you can move with them internationally. I don't know about the finances and tax laws.

  2. Teaching English. This seems to be quite popular. Don't know much about this either. Sorry. I don't think you get a Blue Card (more on that in a second) in this situation - it's just a German working visa.

  3. Search for a job when you're in the country. This requires the "job seeker visa". This actually might be a great way to operate, but note the requirements (must have a bachelors degree). If you move to a big city like Munich or Berlin, you shouldn't have too much trouble finding a job (especially in tech).

  4. Getting hired by a German firm. This is what I did. The most difficult part here is the job search. Not only are domestic job searches difficult, it's very difficult when you don't speak the language and you're across the world. Why would the company go through the difficulty of hiring a foreigner when they can just hire someone in Germany? You need to stand out.
    For searching, I first gathered a list of cities I would want to live in. I hadn't been to any of them, but I read wikipedia and Googled reviews. Then I would use Indeed.com with that city location. If you're in a tech position, StackOverflow jobs is also a great resource. I was hired through Honeypot.io which is an international developer recruiting platform where you create a profile and companies apply to you.

Germans are big on "original contracts" so make sure you get a signed contract from your employer and don't lose it. Make sure it includes your starting date and salary on it (they play into the visa application process). Your starting date should be far enough in the future that you have time to move and apply for a visa while in Germany. Mine was 2 months in the future and I could have used 3 months. The timing might get a little weird - if you don't have your visa by the time you start your job, you might have to delay your start date.

Most employers will also start you off in a "probationary period" of 3-12 months. Once you're past the probationary period, the employee has to give a lengthy notice of leave (usually 3 months), and it's pretty difficult for the employer to fire you (usually only if you've done something illegal or the company is going bankrupt), so this trial period is a time for both of you to seriously evaluate if you like each other (like getting engaged).


SELL ALL OF YOUR SHIT

"Well then get your shit together, get it all together and put it in a backpack, all your shit, so it's together. And if you gotta take it some where, take it somewhere, you know, take it to the shit store and sell it, or put it in the shit museum. I don't care what you do, you just gotta get it together. Get your shit together."

- Rick and Morty

If you're serious about doing this, then you need to minimize. There's no point in holding onto all of your stuff if you're going to be gone for the next few years. Go through literally everything and make three piles: 1) Getting rid of it 2) Keeping it 3) Not sure. Then, go through pile 3 and repeat the process until you're done. Now repeat this process again with everything you've kept. You'll find after a few iterations that you've gotten really good at deciding what's important to you and what is just shit. Sure, I have a few shoeboxes of memories in my mom's attic like an autograph from Bill Nye and kindergarten class pictures, but get rid of all the stuff that will bore your kids when you show them that shoebox. Exam from freshman year of university? Don't need it. Love letters from 9th grade? Lame. 
Moving furniture and big items is incredibly expensive and not practical (flats are smaller in Germany), so aim for 3-4 pieces of luggage per person.

Sell your vehicle. You won't need it. Public transit is extremely cheap, efficient, effective, and contrary to the fear that the American media/government feeds you, incredibly safe. I have felt waaaay more safe in Europe than the US.
Keep in mind when selling your vehicle that you want to cancel your insurance and cancel your state tollroad accounts. My insurance (USAA) offers a "US Touring Policy" which basically means I put my account on "hold" for $25/year which maintains my "account tenure" (aka. locked-in rates) and I have coverage for owned and rented vehicles I drive when I visit the US. Pretty sweet deal.
How you sell your vehicle is up to you, but I got a Kelly Blue Book quote, then went and got two different quotes from dealerships (they weren't as bad as I expected). I listed my vehicle on craigslist and ended up with a private sale, but keep in mind: don't over-stress on this. This is literally the beginning. You might lose some money now, but moving to Europe is not a cheap exercise.

Also, be sure you're saving money! Selling your things should help with this, but after plane tickets, travel fees (baggage, taxis, etc.), assorted registration fees, and the first few months of rent, you'll need at least 3,000€ to feel safe.


BREAK YOUR MOTHER AND GRANDMOTHER'S HEARTS

You're probably not moving to Europe to get closer to your family. That doesn't mean you don't love them and cherish their relationships, but this is a bridge every expat must cross: you will have to tell your loved ones and your good friends that you are moving across the pond. Your grandmother will cry and your mother will constantly ask if you are "sure about your decision" and "one day you'll be thankful for what you have in the US and you'll want to come back" - maybe they're right, but stick to your guns. The amount you will learn and experience is like getting a university degree. If you don't like learning, turn back now. Not only will the culture and customs shock be huge, but foreigners who refuse to adopt the culture are very much looked down upon (and it's just plain rude). 

For communication, you can keep your US number on WhatsApp or Google Voice (telecom info in another section). If you have an iPhone, you can still use iMessage, but it will use your new European number, so to save everyone confusion, I just don't use it. Create calendar reminders to keep in touch with people. It may seem unauthentic, but with the time change and all the errands you'll be running, it's refreshing to see a reminder that says "Call your mother".

At the end of the day, your family should be proud of you for making such a big leap, and when you're reunited again you'll be much more engaged and present.


FIND AN AIRBNB OR SUBLEASE FOR THE FIRST 1-3 MONTHS

If you're moving to a big city, you're probably going to have an incredibly difficult time finding a flat. It's always a seller's market. Let go of your dreams of having a quaint bed-and-breakfast style flat that overlooks the countryside while you have tea in your evening gown. The flats are small, expensive, and your view will probably be facing the side of another building. If you want wide open spaces, move to Wyoming. Most flats have bedrooms for each person and maybe a living room. Often, the kitchen table becomes the common area. The good side of this however, is that people don't often stay in their flat all weekend. The small space forces you to get out, explore, and be social.

It will be difficult to find a flat if you haven't left yet, so pay the extra money and get an AirBnB or sublease for the first few months. AirBnB is probably the better option because it's a trusted website and everything will be furnished and you won't have to worry about bedding, kitchen supplies, etc. I snagged an AirBnB for 45 days and while it was definitely expensive, I couldn't imagine showing up to an unfurnished flat. It provided me a solid landing spot while I could get my shit together and not worry about shopping.

Don't delay on this. A 45-day AirBnB is not easy to find, and since you're a foreigner, you probably won't be immediately accepted. I was sent rejections 3 times before finding one (and there were only 4 left in the city for that time period!). Be polite and include a personal introduction so they know you can be trusted. Imagine if you were renting your place out to a foreigner over the internet!


APPLY FOR A VISA AT A US CONSULATE OFFICE (OPTIONAL)

I didn't do this step, so I can't write a lot about it, but I know it's possible to apply for a visa before you move. You can do this by visiting one of the German consulate locations, but you have to schedule an appointment pretty far out (2-6 months). The benefit of this is you don't have to figure all of it out while you're also shopping for bath towels and getting a ticket from the metro police because you couldn't figure out which subway ticket to buy.
If you know you're moving to Germany in the future, I would definitely give the consulate a call and ask them some questions. It might save you a bunch of time.


FLY TO GERMANY, MOVE INTO YOUR FLAT

If you plan on being in Europe for a while, choose an airline alliance and try to stick with it (within reason). Maybe in 10 years you might get a free meal or something. I went with Star Alliance because they have United (flies to Europe a bunch) and Lufthansa (a German airline). The benefit here is that you can assign/transfer points between them, so if you take a Lufthansa flight from Germany to Greece, you can transfer those points to your United rewards account. With all that being said - if you see a cheap flight, take it, but don't take a 48 hour flight just to save $100.

When choosing a flight, use Momondo (they have a nice app too). They aggregate prices across all networks and I've never found a cheaper ticket. When traveling back to the US, try searching for one way flights, multi-city flights, and round-trip. The best price is not always immediate. You can also try flying to a US city and using old points (like Southwest) to get to your final destination.

It's also important to consider baggage rules when moving. Check your airline's rules before leaving and weigh your bags before going to the airport.
Here's what I took:

  • 1 carry-on (moderate size)

  • 1 personal item (biggest-normal backpack I've got)

  • 1 checked bag (<50 lbs)

  • Additional checked bag for $100 (<50lbs.)

When you land, don't try to be a hero. Pay the outrageous fee to take a cab to your flat. Throw off all your bags. Lay down on the bed (if you have one). Drink a beer. You made it.


COMPLETE "CITY REGISTRATION"

Europe is still super weird in the fact that some countries still require city registration - meaning any time you move (even if you move to a different flat in the same town), you have to literally walk down to the government building and update your address.

This can turn out to be quite a pain. The government building (known as the "KVR" in Munich) is a lot like the DMV. There is always a line. The walls are gray. You take a number. You sit. Your number rings. You find out you have the wrong forms. You try again tomorrow.

The only form you should need for this activity is "Wohnungsgeberbestätigung" ;) a.k.a. "housing confirmation". You need it filled out by the renter of your flat. So if you have a roommate and the lease is in their name, they need to sign it. If you have an AirBnB, the host needs to sign it. If you have your own flat, your landlord needs to sign it.
Germans are weird and they usually require the original documents, so be sure to get the actual piece of paper that was signed and not a scan (I know - so stupid).


OPEN A BANK ACCOUNT

Keep your US bank. You can use your US credit cards pretty easily, but keep in mind Germans love cash, so sometimes places (like bakeries) don't even take German cards. Also, you can't deposit money directly from a European company to a US account, so eventually you want to move away from your US account or you'll spend all your money without replacing it.

Get a German bank. As I mentioned above, your company probably can't direct deposit to your US bank. This is because most of Europe, the Middle East, and Caribbean uses the IBAN system, which is a standardized banking system (the US uses ABA Routing numbers instead). Plus, it's good to have your money on the same side of the ocean as you. As an expat, you'll have limited options. I was denied at a local bank because I'm not a German citizen, so I went with Deutsche Bank. They're terrible - basically the same as Bank of America - lots of fees, charge you at every ATM, horrible customer service, etc. As of yesterday, I just switched to N26. You should be able to open an account before you arrive which would be much easier - but keep in mind once you start working you'll need to supply them with your German Tax ID (which you'll get from your Employer). Banks will send you important documents (debit card, ATM pin, online login) after you sign up, so make sure you can recover mail from whatever address you give them.
Also note: Germans love cash. From my understanding, this is because debt/credit is viewed negatively. So, whatever bank you choose, make sure they have good ATM policies and there are plenty of ATMs around you.

German Taxes. You will pay a lot of taxes in Germany. After everything, expect a ~45% tax rate. This includes:

  • Pension insurance: This is the same thing as Social Security.

  • Unemployment insurance: You can read about how this works, but from my understanding it's much easier to collect than in the US

  • Nursing insurance: Senior housing coverage

  • Health insurance: discussed later

Your taxes may also include a church tax which is 9% of your income tax. When you go to register for the city for the first time, they will ask you if you have been baptized. You are required to tell the truth, but it's pretty easy to leave your baptism out. I can't tell you what to do here. It's also possible that if you answer "no" and the church finds out you've been living in Germany, you might have to back-pay the taxes for the time you've been living in Germany. Either way, it sucks. If you wish to leave the church, you must go to the Standesamt (registry office), Amtsgericht (district court), or notary depending on the state, declare you are "leaving the community" - and you must do it in German (and pay a 0-100€ fee). 

The good news about all of this is you don't actually have to file taxes. Everything is automatically deducted from your payroll and is much less confusing than US taxes. I believe there are certain situations that require you to file taxes - such as buying a house, etc. - but it's not a huge deal. You can also optionally choose to file taxes and try to obtain a 0-2,000€ return for deductions like work expenses, donations, etc. For this you should collect bills for every good and service you buy, and visit a tax specialist for help.

I know a 45% tax sounds like a lot but there are two major considerations to be had:

  1. If you stay in the country / EU, you will benefit from this system. There are a minimal amount of homeless people, it's still very much possible to "make it big" and drive your fancy car (which is cheaper here anyways), and the infrastructure is in great condition.

  2. You still tip at restaurants, but only 1-10%, and never at the dry cleaners, or a food truck, or my favorite: the guy who waives a taxi for you outside a Vegas hotel. Think about that: basically Americans pay a 10-20% tax on basically everything outside of their home.

At the end of the day, I feel like I'm making about the same amount of net income that I was in the US.

Transferring money to and from the US. I still haven't figured this one out. Apparently there are three main options:

  • Do it through your bank (high fees, not a good option)

  • Use Western Union (medium fees, can take a few days for transfer)

  • Forex brokers (lower fees, different delivery speeds)

  • Bonus: Revolut. I just learned about this and need to do more research, but they advertise "Send money globally with no fees"

  • UPDATE: Thanks to suggestions from friends, apparently Transferwise is the way to go


GET A GERMAN PHONE NUMBER

You won't be able to transfer your number to a German network. I know that sounds sort-of obvious, but it took me a long time to confirm that. Even if you use T-Mobile in the US and T-Mobile in Germany, +1 numbers have to stay in +1 networks, +49 in +49, and so on.

If you're like me, you've used the same number for the past 15 years. Separating from it would be a nightmare (all of your accounts are tied to it too!).  US carriers don't have plans for expats, but you can't pay regular US carrier rates while living abroad because that's too expensive (US carriers are generally overpriced anyways), so you definitely need a domestic number.

Here's what you can do: Google Voice allows you to port your number to their service for a one time fee of $20. That means unlimited domestic (US) calling and texting for $20 once. Yeah, holy shit. Basically the catch is you don't actually get service with this. You'll still need a SIM card that can connect to the network. You can choose to forward your Google Voice calls/SMS to your new number, or you can install the Google Voice app and use it through Data or WiFi (quality is great). See here for some technical implementation, but keep in mind: I chose not to forward my US calls/texts to my German number. That would result in international fees. Instead, I use my German number to use cellular data (or WiFi) to use Google Voice for free.

When it comes to getting a German number, you basically have three options:

  1. Telekom (T-Mobile): Best coverage, most expensive

  2. Vodaphone: Good coverage, decently priced

  3. O2: Kinda-shitty coverage, cheap

All of these have two options: Buy an expensive 30-day SIM card (which can be a pain to manage and if you fuck it up and have to buy a new one, you get a new number), or sign up for a 2-year contract. Both are shit options. BUT, you can also use resellers which use a combination of networks to get a really good price for decent coverage. A great website for shopping these is Check24. I ended up going with DeutschlandSIM which gives me a monthly contract, unlimited talk/text and 3.5 GB/mo data in all of the EU (Switzerland is not in the EU) for $22/mo. Boom. Downside is that it's all in German and their customer service is shit but whatever. 

When it comes to Europeans, everyone uses WhatsApp. It took me a while to figure out why this is, but I digress because it's interesting:

Keep in mind the EU is relatively new (1993). While cell phones were becoming popular, you still didn't have complete cooperation between countries, so, if you live in Germany and make a French friend, you have to pay international rates to keep in contact with them. That's absurd. So when WhatsApp came around which offered calling and messaging over data (not bound by call/SMS rates), it gained quick adoption. Meanwhile in the US, everyone lives in the same country, so why the hell would we use an app when we can just send an SMS? See, isn't that cool? I mean, nerdy, yes, but cool. Right!? 

So anyways, now the EU is strongly bonded and those international rates basically don't exist (or are regulated and kept low), so everyone could move back to SMS/calling (well, except Switzerland), but everyone is so used to WhatsApp that I actually had a coworker tell me today: "You know, you're the only person who has sent me an SMS in a long time".
So, download WhatsApp and make sure you have adequate data on your phone plan.
Sidenote: Your WhatsApp "ID" is a phone number, so I registered it with my US number. When you change SIM cards, you change numbers, and WhatsApp will ask if you want to update your WhatsApp number. Don't do this! This will change your WhatsApp number and all the people you met in Europe will lose your contact. Just choose to keep the existing number in WhatsApp. 

In General: I use the Google voice app (US number) for my US friends / family / US accounts / DE accounts, WhatsApp (still on my US number) for European friends, and iMessage (DE number) for European friends that don't have WhatsApp or German accounts that require a German phone number.


BREATHE.

Remember to do this. It helps you stay alive.


OBTAIN HEALTH INSURANCE

Health insurance in Germany is required for everyone and can be provided both privately and publicly. If you're an American, think about it this way: the health insurance you have is private. You pay a private company to provide you with "quality" coverage. You choose that private company, pay them lots of money, and in return you expect to be treated on time at clinics and with top quality physicians. It's pretty much the same in Germany. You can choose private payers, but the only real difference from public insurance is that you might have a shorter wait time at the doctor (because the doctors are probably getting paid more).

With public insurance, you still have to pay (a lot). There is no free healthcare. The rates are standardized for public payers. 15.6% of your income, your employer pays half, so, ~8%, and remember, this 15.6% is included in the 45% tax rate, not additional. Yes, that's a lot. But, the care you receive will still be faster and higher quality than the US. Don't believe me? Have a look at this graph. Or this infographic. Or this ranking. Or just follow this Google search. Also, your healthcare is automatically deducted out of your paycheck, and you don't have to deal with premiums, deductions, copays, etc (you do with private insurance). There's a price point in which 15.6% is more expensive than US care, and it's really easy to say "well, I'm not a communist so I don't believe in socialized healthcare". Two things I would say about that:

  1. Stop living in the 1950s. The commies aren't taking over the world. The capitalists won on November 9th, 1989 and no one wants to go back in time.

  2. The US doesn't have socialized healthcare? What happens if a homeless guy has a heart attack? The ambulance comes, he gets treated - maybe even an emergency bypass procedure. Who pays for that? The hospital. It's called charity care. Now, who subsidizes those losses? Taxpayers. So whether you like it or not, the US has a socialized healthcare system - it's just incredibly over complicated and difficult to conceptualize, which is why it's impossible to see the "full result" of attempts at consolidation (Obamacare).

I can understand the argument "Well, the US should just have a fully capitalistic healthcare market". Sure that sounds great, but the bottom-line of that argument is that you have to let people die. Don't want dead uninsured people lying in your streets? You gotta pay higher taxes.

Okay, end rant. I would suggest going with a public insurer. They are very tightly re so their only competition lies in dental reimbursement and some health class reimbursement, which differs by about 100€/year. To make it really short, I would just go with TK. Their customer service is bomb and they have a dedicated English line. Plus, you can sign up for the TK Traveler plan and get free travel insurance (so you're covered in the US). To sign up easily for TK in English go here.

So, pick a company, give them a call, and tell them you want to sign up. You'll probably need a signed work contract and some other info, but you don't need a visa to sign up with them, so you can do this before you get your visa. They'll send you a bunch of info, and you'll need to provide your health insurance number to your employer for their records.

Okay one more thing about US healthcare. You cut your finger while slicing garlic. The first thought in your head is "I should probably go to the doctor/ER for this". What's the second thought? "How much will that cost?" When your healthcare payment is automatically taken out of your paycheck and visits to the doctor/ER are free (and quick), you don't think twice about your health.
I believe this is a significant underlying factor to the deteriorating quality of care in the US. There is a mental barrier to entry that is indirectly correlated to preventative care.


APPLY FOR A VISA, OBTAIN THE VISA

If you did not apply and receive a visa via a US consulate office (mentioned earlier on), you need to get a visa that allows you to live in Germany. There are few options and I have to admit: I don't know much about all of them and I don't want to provide inaccurate information, so do your own research. This is the most important part of your journey so you should know what visa you're applying for and how to do it. There are a lot of types of visas, but here are the most popular:

  • Tourist visa. You don't actually need a "visa" for this (if you're from the US). You just enter the country and drink a lot of beer. This visa applies to all of the Schengen area and lasts for 90 days. I also think there's a limit of those 90 days in a 180 period, so I don't think it's as simple as "fly to Morocco and back for a day". Correct me if I'm wrong.

  • Student visa. I have no idea how this works. Good luck.

  • Job-seeker visa. From my understanding, this allows you to live in the country for 6 months while you search for a job. Actually, it might be a great way to start if you know 100% you want to move to Germany but are having trouble finding a job from the US.

  • Work Visa (and EU Blue Card). This is the visa that allows you to reside in Germany while you work there. There is a domestic work visa and an EU Blue Card. The Blue Card is a working visa that applies to all of the EU and has the following added benefits:

    • It is valid for 4 years, can be extended, and extends 3 months past the termination of your contract (so you can hunt for another job)

    • You can apply for permanent residence after 33 months (or 21 months if you pass the B1 language test)

    • You can work and live in other EU countries after 18 months

    • Your spouse and relatives can join you under the same visa

Applying is a pain in the ass. You'll need to head down to the local government office with all the necessary papers, stand in line for 3 hours, get told they're full for the day, come back the next day, stand in line for 3 hours, and find out you're missing a required document. The recruitment firm I used provided a free visa service which turned out to be a lifesaver. I highly suggest you check them out and give them a call (and tell them I sent you ;) ). Even if it's expensive, it's still worth it to have someone who can answer all of your specific questions. 

Side Note: If you're applying for a Blue Card, you'll meet with someone, they'll ask you some simple questions, you pay something like €100 Euro, and then they stamp the blue card in your passport. This is somewhat shitty - I thought I was going to get an actual card so when I need to show ID somewhere I can use that. Unfortunately now, I have to take my passport everywhere for proof of identification.


START YOUR JOB

Begin anew as a cog in the wheel! Work 5/7ths of your life for money so you can spend it on 2/7ths of your life! Spend your Mondays grocery shopping and your Tuesdays doing Laundry! You've made it!

When you begin your job, you'll have the normal routine as in the US: fill out papers, provide direct deposit details, go through onboarding, etc. There's not much overhead cost here, but you'll still have plenty to do for personal administration (buy stuff for your flat, etc.), so having a job definitely adds to the burden for the first few months. Keep that in mind - now you're adjusting to a new country and to a new job. You can do it!


HUNT FOR A PERMANENT FLAT

Now comes the hard part! Chances are, you're moving to a big city, and the demand is higher than the supply. Basically, it's like moving to SF or NY. Not as expensive, but it's not a walk in the park to find a new place. You can get your own flat, but usually this requires 3 months of pay stubs and the landlord's trust. I recommend finding a shared flat to start out for the first 6-12 months. For shared flats, you can use WG-Gesucht.com and do two things: 1) create a custom search that has the specifics of what you're looking for and 2) create a profile where others can apply to you. That way you're on both sides of the search. Expect an arduous process. I kept a spreadsheet of my search and ended up with around ~60 listings before I signed a lease. People will want to meet you 1-2 days after you contact them, and they'll want to evaluate your personality as well. Remember - they're going to be your roommate - be polite! Unfortunately, it's a seller's market, so you don't have much of a choice here. Take what you can get and deal with it until you have time to search for your "ideal" place. It took me 2 months, but everyone keeps telling me I got lucky. It took my coworker 6 months. Chances are though, you'll get lucky. Germans are clean and they expect respectful behavior in the house, but if you can do that, you'll probably be having beers in the kitchen and talking politics soon enough :)

Speaking of kitchens, two important points about big cities:

  1. You're lucky if you get a living room. It's not uncommon for the common area to be the kitchen. Space and personal bubbles are an American thing. Remember, you didn't move to Europe to experience the Wild West.

  2. This part blows my mind: Okay, you know how washer/dryers are not always included in rentals in the US? Well, the same concept applies in Germany, but for kitchens. Yes, whole, entire kitchens. Not just the stove and fridge, but the cabinets and sinks too. What. The. Hell.
    From my understanding, the landlords know they can rent out the units without furnishing kitchens, so they don't install them. Then, someone moves in, goes to Ikea, and buys an entire kitchen with their own money. Then when they move out, they take their kitchen with them. I feel like I'm taking crazy pills. What I haven't figured out is where do all the kitchens go? Eventually you would think that all the flats finally fill up with kitchens and everyone's good to go right? Unfortunately, I think it's turtles all the way down. Every week I hear about people buying kitchens and I'm just left wondering how this ever began in the first place. Last week I found it's not uncommon for people to move out of their flat and store their custom fitted kitchen for their old flat in the cellar of their new flat while they try to sell it. I'm thinking of seeing a therapist.

Regardless of if you have a kitchen or not, you'll hopefully find a new flat and sign a lease with your flatmate. The leases here aren't as strict as in the US, so I signed a no-limit lease with a 60-day notice of leave. This is the way is should be. 

Last but not least, please think ahead and check if the flat is furnished. It would really suck to move into a room without a bed on day one. If you can plan for this though - go for it! It's common to see "takeover prices" (which sometimes apply to kitchens too). For example, paying 500€ one-time to purchase the existing furniture.


BUY PERSONAL LIABILITY INSURANCE

Everyone in Germany has "Haftpflichtversicherung" (personal liability insurance), which is actually pretty cool: It covers any damage you may cause by accident including: setting your apartment on fire, dropping your friend's laptop in the ocean, etc. It solves those problems where your friend says "Hey, you cracked my phone screen!" and then you both awkwardly try to determine if your friendship is worth more or less than $120.

The good news is, it's incredibly cheap. Again, use Check24 for this. I pay ~70€/year for 50MM€ coverage. Some landlords / flatmates require this before signing a lease, so it's worth looking into!


MOVE INTO PERMANENT FLAT

The day has come! You're finally getting your own place! Again, don't be a cheap ass here and load your 5 suitcases onto the U-Bahn and look like a fool. Get a taxi and move your shit. If you did things right, you should have the same number of items as when you moved to Germany, plus a few scarves and jackets you bought. If you bought a kitchen, you are contributing to the problem. 

Now for your last major deadline: you'll have two weeks to go back to the government building and re-register for your address :) Viel spass! The good news is that you've done this before, and now you're part of the crowd that can arrogantly look around thinking "why is this place so busy!?" But now, you have a permanent address, which makes things much easier. Now, you need to fuel that capitalistic market and:


Pay the Rundfunkbeitrag

This is pretty simple but definitely a step in the process. The Rundfunkbeitrag is a license fee for public broadcasting - basically a separate tax for public access TV channels and radio. 

When you move into your flat, you will receive a letter from "Beitragsservice von ARD, ZDF und Deutschlandradio", asking you kindly to pay 17.50€/month. If you are moving into a flat with a flatmate who already lives there, they will pay for the flat and probably include your share in the rent. However, you still have to fill out the paper and indicate this.

Important point: as this website states, you must notify the Beitragsservice when you move out of the country.


BUY STUFF

Oh yeah! The fun part for you, and the sad part for your bank account. Ikea is alive and well in Deutschland, so it's worth a trip, even if you have to rent a truck for a day. This is your place so you can make your own list, but here's what I've bought in the first two months:

  • Bed and couch in the room are furnished

  • 250€ takeover for desk, chair, wardrobe, cabinet, bookshelf. I'll probably charge the same to the next tenant when I move out.

  • Art

  • Plants

  • Towels

  • Sheets

  • Pillows

  • Rug

  • Lamp

  • Coat rack

  • Curtains

  • Snowboard

  • Guitar

That should get you started. The first week will be insane. You'll spend your days at your new job, then rush to the stores before they close (usually at 20:00), so you can buy a curtain rod, so you can block out the light from the building next-door, so you can wake up and do it all over again. Ain't life grand? 
But now the best part:


BREATHE MOTHERFUCKER

YOU DID IT. A winner is you! Have more beers! Prosit!
Seriously though, sit back in your Ikea decorated room and think about what you've done. You've moved across the world, jumped through a bunch of bureaucratic hoops, started a new job, and found a new apartment. Take a deep breath or fifty. Put on some chill music and stare at the ceiling for a while. 


LEARN GERMAN

Ah, yes, you probably need to learn the language or you're going to look like a huge tool. Don't be that person. Take the time to learn the language. If you're American, you probably only know one language anyways, so now is your chance to break the mold! I use Duolingo every day, which is great for vocab, and just started lessons on GermanToGo.com. Every city should have multiple German clubs or classes, so try those out if you have the time as well!. If you're a spouse who's sitting around the house most days, try an immersive course which are usually 20-40 hours/week. You'll learn super fast!

Fair warning: German is pretty hard to understand. "umfahren" means "drive over" and "umfahren" means "drive around". There's a masculine gender, a feminine gender, and a gender-neutral gender. The sentences can be structured like how Yoda talks (fronting).  Don't let this be the straw that breaks the camels back. You've already pushed through so much - take a few more steps and push yourself so you can integrate with the culture. You'll make friends easier and people will respect you for trying to maintain their traditions.


TRAVEL

If you're coming from the US, I really encourage you to stay outside of your comfort zone and explore the continent. Don't just hole-up and watch Netflix. Flights to most EU countries are < 150€. Trains are sort-of pricey, but they give you a chance to see the country in a totally unique way. If you're near the alps, go skiing or boarding. If you don't know how, learn. This is not going to last forever (or maybe it will, who knows). Don't waste your time. 
It's a myth that European companies don't work hard. Even the Spanish with their infamous siestas work very hard. Something that isn't a myth though is the importance everyone places on their personal lives. 25 days vacation is minimum in Germany, which is around 3x what I was taking in the US.
Do. Not. Waste. It.

I cover practical traveling tips in another post, but here are some that are specific to being a local, some specific to Germany:

  • Vehicles. Renting a car is pretty easy if you have a US license. If you have a visa signature credit card from the US, it covers damage to the vehicle. The EU has mandatory coverage paid by the rental agencies for up to 5MM€ liability. Your health insurance covers damage to you. So, renting a vehicle is a very viable option (incredibly cheap too - I paid 5€/day in Portugal).

  • Driving. Only a few countries drive on the left side of the road, so you should be fine. Spend some time studying traffic signs though and please, please put the pedal to the metal on the Autobahn

  • Train cards. If you take the train a bunch, you can buy a 25% or 50% off card ("half-fare card"). Trains are much more popular than the US, but still not so popular that I would recommend this.

  • Skiing / Snowboarding. You can check BergFex for information on resorts. You can take ski buses from multiple companies for a reasonable price. You can even take a train from München that include the price of the lift ticket!


CONVERT YOUR DRIVERS LICENSE

Your US drivers license is valid for 6 months upon entering the country. If you plan to stay in the country for less than 12 months, your license is valid for up to 12 months, but you must visit the government offices before 6 months to get this approved. If you are planning to stay for more than 12 months, your license is not valid after 6 months and you must convert your drivers license within 3 years. Only some US states are able to partially or fully convert their licenses. Read the details here and here.


TAXES

I hate to break it to you, but you still need to file US taxes. When you sign up for your bank, you will be mailed a W9 which means because the US IRS and Germany share data, your deposits into your German bank will be viewable to the US. This allows the US to keep track of your foreign income and in certain instances, tax you. The rule name you're looking for here is "Foreign Earned Income Exclusion". Basically, you are not taxed in the US for income earned under $104,100 (in 2018) if you reside outside of the US for a full calendar year or 330 days out of the year. If you make over that amount, you are taxed at a discounted rate. Keep in mind that is dollars and you'll be getting paid in Euros. From my discussion with a TurboTax consultant, the date(s) you choose to make that "conversion" is up to you, be it at the end of every month, quarter, year, etc. I would shoot for a date in which the dollar is low. You can always call TurboTax and speak directly with a tax consultant - it was super easy! Other tax hints the consultant gave me:

  • Keep tight records. You won't get a W2 so you'll need to stay organized.

  • Healthcare check does not apply because you lived outside of the country. As of writing this (03/2018) the tax check shouldn't take effect in 2018 anyways.

  • The Foreign Earned Income Exclusion only applies when you have spent 330 days out of the US or have become a legal resident of another territory. I moved to Germany in November, so technically I did not qualify (because it goes by calendar year), and the by the books way of doing things is to file full US taxes on the money you earned outside the US and the next year, file an amendment saying you want that money back. I think that's bullshit. I'll leave it to you to decide. Either way, use TurboTax when filing your US taxes. You'll still probably need to choose a state of residence for the US (like, where your parents live), but TurboTax asks the right questions when it comes to living outside of the country.

  • Actual response from Turbotax:"If you haven't been a resident in foreign country for a full calendar year yet, you generally do not meet the Bona Fide Resident Test. You may still qualify for the exclusion using the Physical Presence Test if you have been in a foreign country at least 330 days in a 12-month period that included at least part of the tax year.If you don't meet the Physical Presence Test, but you expect to meet the Bona Fide Resident test at the end of 2018 (because 2018 will be your first full calendar year residing in a foreign country), then you should file your 2017 return without claiming the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion. At the end of 2018, if you have in fact maintained your residency in a foreign country the entire year, you can amend your 2017 return to claim the exclusion using the Bona Fide Residence Test.If you do not qualify under the Bona Fide Residence Test or Physical Presence Test, then you may not claim the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion. You might still qualify for the Foreign Tax Credit, which we'll cover later in the Deductions and Credits section."

When all is said and done, you’ll still need to file another form if you have over $10,000 in a foreign bank account. The form is called the FBAR (Foreign Bank Account Report) and only takes ~10 minutes to fill out (if you’re a normal person with 1-2 bank accounts). You can find the form here.


CONCLUSION

I can't put all the info on here. When I started this, I thought it would be a few paragraphs. Now it's taken me two months to write (among checking off the tasks above) and I still feel like it's missing huge gaps. I didn't have anything like this when I moved, so I hope it reaches someone out there and you're able to benefit from it. If I've left anything out, please let me know in the comments below. I can easily update this with changes. 

I wish you the best on your journey!